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Voice of Plenty

Wells, the search for water and life

The image we have today of wells is that of a cylindrical conduit descending vertically to the precious liquid we all need to live: water. Thus, a well today functions a bit like a straw that sucks water to the surface. In the past, this wasn’t the case at all. Not only in India, but also in Italy (for example, in Sardinia, in Orvieto, in Scicli), there are ancient wells that are truly human spaces, spaces with steps where one can descend to penetrate the deepest part of the Earth. Wells in Sardinia are connected to lunar cycles and equinoxes, and have specific geometries linked to the cosmos. Some wells in India are richly decorated. The well was therefore a spiritual path combined with the survival need to collect water. For us today, this is no longer the case, but once upon a time, there was no separation between the fields of human knowledge, and spirituality was one of them. Thus, going down to the water became a very powerful initiation, a descent into the dark underworld, where one could find water, life.

The well was the first structure built before a village was established. The construction of the well was in itself an initiatory step for the entire community.

In hot, arid countries like India, Persia, or Arabia, where rainfall disappears for many months, water management was a matter of crucial importance for the survival of communities, and it is not at home here that we find the most advanced hydraulic systems.

 

Sacred Stepwells of India: Engineering Water, Geometry, and the Spiritual Architecture of Care

Across the dry and semi-arid regions of western India, particularly in Gujarat and Rajasthan, ancient societies developed one of the most sophisticated water systems in pre-modern architecture: the stepwell.

More than 3,000 stewells have been counted in India today. Many wells have likely gone undetected because they were filled with waste and refuse over time, especially inside the modern cities. Eastern India and Bangladesh have different climates, and stepwells are much rarer on the map. The climate is becoming more humid and tropical.

Known locally as baoli, bawdi, kund, or vav, depending from the shape, these structures were carefully engineered subterranean landscapes where water management, sacred symbolism, geometry, and social life merged into a single coherent system.

No one can precisely date the construction of the first water-well sanctuaries in India. I recall that the same type of architecture is also found in Nuragic Sardinia and in many other ancient civilizations, but they reached their architectural and engineering peak between the 8th and 16th centuries, under the patronage of Hindu, Jain, and later Islamic rulers.

Their development reflects a continuous refinement of hydraulic knowledge adapted to monsoon climates, fluctuating groundwater levels, and long-distance travel routes across arid terrain.


Engineering the Descent: How Stepwells Were Built

At the core of every stepwell is a simple principle: access to groundwater through controlled vertical descent. Instead of raising water to the surface, builders designed entire structures that allowed people to descend to the water table, whose level changed seasonally. That’s why many stepwells has a structure with coloums and floor, because, depending from the rain season, water was found to a different altitude.

The construction typically began with deep excavation into alluvial soil or bedrock. Once the pit was stabilized, stone or brick retaining walls were constructed in modular layers. These walls were often reinforced with interlocking ashlar masonry—precisely cut stone blocks fitted without mortar in some early examples, relying on gravity and friction for stability.

A key innovation was the integration of multi-directional staircases.

Rather than a single descent path, many stepwells use symmetrical flights of stairs arranged along one or more axes, often forming geometric compositions such as:

  • Vav – Linear descent (single axis): a straight staircase leading directly to the water, often with a temple in the entrance.

  • Bilateral symmetry: mirrored staircases on both sides of a central shaft.

  • Kund – Quadrilateral or cross-shaped plans: four descending arms converging toward the well shaft.

  • Pavilion-linked geometry: alternating stair sections and columned halls at each level.

  • Single or Double Spyral reproducing the geometry of a double spyral galaxy or a vortex.

These designs were not arbitrary. They followed strict geometric planning based on axial symmetry, proportional ratios, and modular repetition in order to create an initiation path for those who were discending towards the water, as they were reconnecting with the primordial source.

The kind of wells with steps descending to the water level on multiple sides are callled kund, like the Panna Meena Ka Kund in Jaipur who is an impressive upside down pyramis, or the many Brahma Kund made with an octagonal shape, and with a lotus flower in the centre. 

A rare kind of stepwell is Bhamariya Vav (o Bhamariya Kuvo).

The etymology of Bhamāriya (Gujarati: ભમરિયા, often transliterated Bhamariya) is very interesting because it derives from a root meaning circular or whirling motion.

In Western Indo-Aryan languages, such as Gujarati, the verb bhamvuṁ (ભમવું) means to spin, wander, rotate, or move in a circle. From this root comes bhamar, which can mean a vortex, a rotary motion, and, in some contexts, also the bumblebee or honeybee, due to their ability to build bee hives with a perfect spiral shape (Tetragonula carbonaria).

Unlike traditional stepwells with straight staircases like Rani ki Vav or Chand Baori, the Bhamariya Vav features a spiral staircase that circles the well, descending towards the water.


Water as a Living System

Stepwells were engineered not only to access water but to preserve its quality. Underground chambers reduced evaporation dramatically, while stone linings helped stabilize temperature and limit contamination. In some cases, filters of gravel and sand were incorporated at inlets to purify runoff rainwater before it reached the main reservoir.

Hydrologically, stepwells functioned as hybrid systems: part groundwater well, part rainwater harvesting structure. During monsoon seasons, they collected surface water; during dry seasons, they tapped into subterranean aquifers. This dual mechanism ensured year-round availability in regions where surface water could disappear for months.


Sacred Geometry and Spatial Experience

One of the most distinctive features of stepwells is their transformation of geometry into lived experience. Descending into a stepwell is not a straight movement but a structured spatial progression.

As the user descends:

  • The temperature decreases

  • The light gradually fades

  • The acoustics shift from open air to enclosed resonance

  • The architecture becomes increasingly intricate and symbolic


Initiation paths to water

Why ancient Indian people used to make such a big effort in order to build a well? Sometimes even bringning stones from 60Km aways.

As we told before, stepwells were essential for the life of a community so people wanted wells to last for centuries. Stepwells were also a place for social gathering and refresh during the hot season, like the Roman hot baths in winters. They were place for rest for caravans with many people carring animals with them, and there was a detailed map of wells used by ancient travellers. 

But especially they were spiritual places for prayers and rituals connected with water element as the ones for fertility.

This controlled descent creates a psychological transition from the outer world to an inner meditative space. It is a deliberate architectural path for initiation moving from the surface world into the depth of water as a symbolic journey inward.

The fractal structure of the stairs created a progressive disorientation of the mind, a sort of psychedelic effect, in which the soul was gradually absorbed into another level.

Many stepwells exhibit a form of mandala-like spatial organization, where movement downward becomes a ritualized journey through increasingly enclosed and sacred spaces.

Carvings of deities, floral motifs, celestial beings, and narrative panels reinforce this symbolic dimension. In many cases, architecture and cosmology merge: the stepwell becomes a vertical axis connecting earth, water, and the divine.

Among the most important initiatory architectural forms were the unidirectional spiral and the vortex. The descent toward the water thus became a fluid movement, capable of reproducing the very motion of water itself. Moving downward through these subterranean geometries was not merely a practical action, but a ritualized experience of immersion into a living spatial organism.

Furthermore there is always light coming from above, even if sometimes it can be very weak, because there is no cealing in the well, so you don’t loose the conntection with the level of upper life, differently from closed caves experienced.

Another possibility I consider is that many of these wells were also conceived as instruments for collecting rainwater acoustically as well as hydraulically. One can imagine the extraordinary concert generated by raindrops striking the countless stone steps: a natural orchestra of echoes, resonances, and rhythmic vibrations reverberating through the underground chambers.

In India, ancient temples also preserved examples of so-called “musical stairs”, where variations in the density, length, and resonance of the stone steps produced distinct frequencies under the pressure of the human foot. Sound itself became architecture. It is therefore conceivable that certain stepwells were designed not only to manage water, but also to shape acoustic and vibrational experiences connected to ritual perception and altered states of consciousness.

The stepwell thus became a place for approching water with a deep and empty state of mind, to approch water with reverence and respect, a place of reconnection with the primordial womb of Mother Earth, whose essence was water itself.

Nowadays we just simply use water without thinking about its esoteric meaning, but in the past people used stepwell to remember what water really means for humans. 

Descending into these labyrinthine spaces meant progressively dissolving ordinary mental boundaries within fractal geometries, spirals, shadows, echoes, vibrations, and increasing darkness. Spatial perception was reprogrammed through sacred geometry and sensory immersion.

These environments may have functioned as initiatory architectures capable of rebalancing the human ego, reminding the individual that the human being is merely a traveler within a universal space created according to a superior and harmonious order (like the geometry of the mosques and ancient temples).

The perfection of the geometry generated humility, contemplation, and alignment with cosmic rhythms.

Water—the primordial matrix of life—absorbed all these vibrations and movements. In this dynamic interaction between sound, geometry, matter, and flow, the water remained pure, alive, oxygenated, and free from stagnant macro-clusters.

The stepwell therefore operated simultaneously as an engineering device, an acoustic chamber, a sacred landscape, and a machine for spiritual transformation, in a perfect holistic view of life in which science is not separated by spirituality.

The sanskrit word jīvana (जीवन)  is a word related to the concept of life and water.

Jīvana derives from the verbal root jīv (जीव्), which means: to live, to be alive, to stay alive.

In many Sanskrit texts, especially poetic and Ayurvedic ones, jīvana can also indicate something that sustains life. Since water is the vital substance par excellence, in some contexts the term can be used to refer to water.

The word Darśana (दर्शन)  derives from the Sanskrit root dṛś (दृश्), which means to see, observe, contemplate.

Darśana primarily means: vision, sight, contemplation, direct perception.

In Hindu religious practice, performing darśana means seeing and being seen by the divine. The divine see you and you see the divine. 

In many Indian stepwells, the descent is conceived as a ritual journey. Step by step, the visitor moves from the ordinary world toward the depths of the earth, where the pilgrimage culminates in a final darshana. Here, unlike in a conventional temple, the deity is not represented by a sculpted image. Instead, the object of veneration is the natural Spring itself—the living water emerging from the depths, regarded as a direct manifestation of the Sacred.

The shape of many Indian waterwells is a kind of yoni (योनि) or womb, origin, stream, vagina, and it is the same in Sardinia, Italy (Santa Cristina Well).

The shape of yoni wells and devotional lamps (deepa) used in India, likely inherited from there by ancient Greece and Rome, all have the same vaginal inlet shape.

This aspect reminds us that in ancient times, the divine was connected to the feminine and to the element of water, the bearer of life. All the symbols linked to fertility and agriculture, like water or the ear of corn, are linked to female deities even up to ancient Rome, despite the prevalence of the patriarchy it was not possible to remove this deep and natural connection.


A space for women made by women

Stepwells also formed an essential infrastructure for gatherings, travel and pilgrimage. In medieval India, long-distance movement between towns, temples, and trade centers depended on reliable water access. Stepwells were often constructed along major routes at intervals that corresponded to the distance a traveler or caravan could reasonably cover in a day’s journey—typically 10 to 20 kilometers depending on terrain.

They functioned as multifunctional spaces:

  • Water collection points

  • Resting shelters with shaded galleries in case of extreme heat

  • Sites of religious rituals and offerings

  • Social gathering spaces for local communities

Women, in particular, played a central role in their daily use, as water collection was often part of domestic responsibility, turning stepwells into spaces of communication and social exchange for sharing women wisdom.

We can say that water wells were made for women, but also that many of them were made by women, like Rani Ki Vav, the steps of the Queen, builtby the Queen Udayamati.


Notable Stepwells of India (with Dates and Features)

Rani ki Vav (Patan, Gujarat) — c. 1063 CE

Commissioned by Queen Udayamati of the Solanki dynasty in memory of King Bhima I.

  • UNESCO World Heritage Site

  • Built in the Maru-Gurjara architectural style

  • Features seven levels of stairs descending into a vertical shaft

  • Over 1,000 sculptural panels depicting Hindu deities and mythological themes

  • Designed as an inverted temple emphasizing sacred descent into water

Rani ki Vav, a famous stepwell located in Patan, in the Indian state of Gujarat, was built around 1063 CE (11th century) by Queen Udayamati of the Chaulukya dynasty, in memory of her husband, King Bhimdev I.

The structure is designed as a deeply symbolic “inverted temple,” descending in a series of levels toward the groundwater. It contains thousands of finely carved sculptures representing Hindu deities and mythological scenes, making it one of the most important examples of stepwell architecture in India.

Beyond its practical function as a water reservoir, Rani ki Vav also has a strong ritual and spiritual meaning: the descent into the well is seen as a symbolic journey toward the hidden source of life within the earth.


Chand Baori (Abhaneri, Rajasthan) — c. 8th–9th century CE

Chand Baori, located in the village of Abhaneri in Rajasthan, is widely regarded as one of the largest and deepest stepwells in India. It descends approximately 30 meters into the ground and is organized across 13 levels, connected by an astonishing network of around 3,500 extremely narrow and precisely arranged steps.

The design follows a strict geometric logic, forming a near-perfect inverted pyramid. Each side of the structure is carefully mirrored, creating a visual rhythm of symmetry that enhances both structural stability and spatial clarity. The steps are arranged in dense, repetitive patterns that maximize accessibility while also minimizing the footprint of the structure at the surface level.

The earliest construction phases of Chand Baori are generally dated to the 8th–9th century CE, making it one of the oldest surviving and most advanced examples of stepwell engineering in India. Its massive scale reflects not only technical mastery in excavation and stone construction, but also a deep understanding of thermal comfort: the lower levels remain significantly cooler than the surface, making the stepwell a functional refuge during extreme desert heat.

Beyond its engineering precision, Chand Baori also illustrates the integration of utility and symbolism characteristic of Indian water architecture. The descent into the stepwell becomes a spatial experience shaped by light, shadow, and repetition, transforming a water source into a monumental architectural environment.


Adalaj Stepwell (Gandhinagar district, Gujarat) — 1498 CE

  • Commissioned by Queen Rudabai

  • Combines Hindu and Islamic architectural motifs

  • Octagonal well shaft supported by intricately carved pillars

  • Five levels of descent with progressively cooling microclimates

  • Includes narrative carvings illustrating daily life and spiritual symbolism


Dada Harir Stepwell (Ahmedabad, Gujarat) — 1485 CE

  • Built during the late Gujarat Sultanate period

  • Five-story deep structure aligned on a north-south axis

  • Inscriptions in Sanskrit and Persian

  • Rich stone latticework controlling light and ventilation

  • Demonstrates advanced urban hydraulic planning


Toorji Ka Jhalra (Jodhpur, Rajasthan) — 1740 CE

  • Commissioned by a queen of the Marwar royal family

  • Rediscovered and restored in the 21st century

  • Characterized by tightly packed geometric stair systems

  • Built using local red sandstone

  • Designed to serve both water needs and community life in the old city


Bhimkund, Madhya Pradesh, historical region of Bundelkhand

Bhimkund is natural well in central India: a deep, natural pool of water nestled in the rock, famous for its intense turquoise color and its still-unexplored depths.

The scene is almost unreal: in the midst of an arid, rocky landscape, a perfectly circular cavity suddenly opens up, like a vertical wound in the earth. The water, incredibly transparent in the first layers, quickly turns a deep, almost electric turquoise blue, seeming not to simply reflect the light but to contain it.

The rock walls drop vertically and disappear into the darkness, giving the sensation of a bottomless natural abyss. For this reason, Bhimkund is often described as an “eye of the earth,” a threshold between surface and depth.

According to local tradition, the place is linked to the figure of Bhima, one of the Pandavas of the Mahabharata, hence the name “Bhim Kund.” It is said that he opened the rock with his strength to allow the water to flow, thus creating this natural pool.

Today, the site is considered sacred and enigmatic: despite various explorations, the exact depth of the basin has not yet been determined with certainty. This contributes to its allure, along with the contrast between the perfect calm of the surface and the idea of an immense void hidden beneath.

More than a simple natural place, Bhimkund is often perceived as a space of transition: from water as a vital element to the sense of mystery and sacredness that recalls that very idea of darśana —not through an image, but through the living and powerful presence of nature itself.


Double Spyral Stepwell, Walur Village, Selu Taluka, Parbhani District of Maharashtra

The access to water is through a double helical path that progressively wraps around the central well, leading downward to the aquifer.

This configuration transforms an everyday gesture, like fetching water, into a complex spatial experience: the body does not descend directly, but rotates around the central void, following a continuous trajectory that combines vertical and circular motion.

The double spiral thus creates a dynamic perception of space, in which each step modifies the relationship between light, shadow, and depth, while the open surface of the landscape gradually recedes and the environment becomes cooler, more intimate, and quiet.

At the center of this geometry is the water, a stable and immobile point around which all movement is organized. This is the exact geometry of so many galaxies, a natural geometry of our cosmo. The water at the center is the nucleus of the galaxy around which everything moves.

Giulia Maria – Voice of Plenty


 

> LINK TO THE VIDEO

with a conference of the photographer CLAUDIO CAMBON, who made a full documentary of Indian Stepwelles, visiting 250 wells around India.

BOOK: Her Space, Her Story: Exploring the Stepwells of Gujarat by Purnima Bhatt.