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Voice of Plenty

Fakir Khana Haveli in Lahore and its Miniature Collection

In the heart of the Walled City of Lahore (Pakistan), not far from the historic Bhatti Gate, lies one of the most fascinating testimonies to the city’s heritage: the Fakir Khana Museum.

Although there are numerous historic haveli in Lahore, this one in particular is linked to a private art collection that sets it apart from all the others. I will never forget the emotion I had when I first discover this impressive heritage of ancient Indian Art and Mastery.

History of the Haveli and the Family

The building dates back to Lahore’s Sikh era (early 19th century) and belonged to the Fakir family, a wealthy local dynasty that settled in the city as early as 1730 and was active in both administration and cultural preservation. The family ran a publishing house and, over the decades, amassed an impressive collection of art documents and artifacts.

The Fakir Khana Museum remains a private collection, cared for and managed by descendants of the same family with love, commitment and humility.

The museum is housed in an old traditional haveli, a large urban residence typical of Lahore, located in the historic area near Bhatti Gate in the old district of Lahore.

The Miniature Collection

At the heart of the museum is one of the most important collections of miniatures in the subcontinent. The works on display include:

  • Mughal and Persian miniatures, artistic testimonies of the Islamic imperial era from the 17th to 19th centuries
  • Pahari, Rajput, and Kangra schools, expressions of the refined artistic syncretism of northern India
  • Paintings on paper or ivory, often created by self-taught artisans with great skill and detail.
  • Each miniature is placed in a unique and original frame, specially made by the owner, usually of inlaid wood or ivory, which contains a small shelf, on which beautiful antique statuettes rest, often of deities such as dancing Shiva Nataraja (dancing shiva) or the Daikini.

The museum houses more than one hundred miniatures, with one of the most important examples dating back to the 19th century: a portrait of Nawab Mumtaz Ali, meticulously crafted with a single brush stroke over fifteen years by the artist, according to the collection’s records.

In addition to miniatures, the collection also includes period furniture, ancient ceramics, religious objects, and traditional crafts that reflect Lahore’s social and cultural evolution over the centuries.

Historical and Cultural Value

The Fakir Khana Museum represents a rare exception in the South Asian museum landscape: it is not a state institution, but a family-owned collection, open to the public by appointment only. This makes the visit not only an aesthetic experience, but also a direct encounter with the city’s historical memory.

The miniatures, in particular, are a living bridge between the refined art of the Mughals and the local influences that flourished in the artistic centers of Punjab and the Himalayas. This collection is considered of great value to both scholars and enthusiasts of the art history of the subcontinent.

📍 Location

The haveli is located within the walled city of Lahore (Old City), in the area around Bhatti Gate. This area is traditionally rich in historic architecture—many of which are Sikh and colonial-era haveli—and is one of the city’s main hubs of urban heritage.

Visiting the museum usually requires an advance appointment, as the spaces are managed by the family and are not always open to the public like a conventional museum.

Below I transcribe some of the wonderful stories told by the owner and other stories I know connected with some of the miniatures.

THE MINIATURES OF MUSIC – RAGAMALAS

A Raag (or Rāga) is the foundation of Indian classical music. It is not simply a musical scale or seqeunce of sounds,  but a structured melodic pattern containing precise rules, an emotional atmosphere, and even a specific time of day when it should be performed.

A Raag defines:

  • A specific sequence of notes (ascending and descending can be different);
  • Main notes (vadi and samvadi) that have greater importance like the finalis or the repercussa of Gregorian Modes;
  • Characteristic melodic phrases;
  • Rules for moving between notes.

 

It is therefore not a simple scale: it is a living melodic grammar.

 

Time and Nature

Each Raag is associated with:

  • A specific time of day (dawn, noon, sunset, night),
  • A season,
  • A natural atmosphere.

 

For example, Raag Todi (Miyan ki Todi), that we find in this miniature, is traditionally performed in the morning and has an introspective, meditative, and slightly melancholic character.

 

Emotion (Rasa)

Each Raag expresses a dominant emotion: Love, Devotion, Heroism, Sadness, Serenity, Desire.

Its purpose is to evoke a deep emotional state, not just produce pleasant sounds.

 

Tansen and Miyan ki Todi

According to tradition, the great musician Tansen, at the court of Emperor Akbar in the 16th century, made this Raag famous.

For this reason, it was called Miyan ki Todi (“the Todi of Miyan,” an honorific title given to Tansen).

 

Todi is the name of a melotype (a specific family of melodic structures or scales). It identifies a particular combination of notes and characteristic movements  associated with the morning (usually late morning). It has an introspective, melancholic, meditative character.

Musically the Todi family uses lowered notes (komal) that create tension and delicacy, a sinuous progression, with very subtle micro-intonations and so the result is an almost contemplative atmosphere, sometimes charged with sweet uneasiness.

Over time, Tody has become a musical category encompassing several variations, including:

Miyan ki Todi

Gujari Todi

Multani (related to the same family)

 

Miyān is a term of respect of Persian/Urdu origin, that means “lord,” “master,” or “authoritative person.”

It was used to indicate someone of great artistic or spiritual value.

Miyan ki Todi: “ki” means “of.”

So the name means “the Todi of Miyan.” The “Miyan” in question is Tansen, the great musician of Emperor Akbar’s court in the 16th century. According to tradition, Akbar bestowed this title on him to honor him. This is why some Raags associated with him carry the prefix “Miyan,” for example: Miyan ki Todi or Miyan ki Malhar.

 

Raags and Painting: Ragamalas

In the eighteenth century, Raags were not only performed but also visualized. Instead of being written down in notation, their essence was expressed through painting. These miniature artworks translated music into imagery, capturing every subtle detail of mood, time, season, and emotion.

This particular painting represents a bright summer morning, somewhere between 5 a.m. and noon.

At the center stands an enchantress dressed in rose pink — a color traditionally associated with dawn. The Raag depicted here is ƚudh, meaning “pure,” indicating that it is not a mixture of other Raags but a complete and independent melodic form.

Its purity is symbolically reflected in the generous pomegranate tree. Just as red and white pomegranates cannot be sown together without losing their integrity, this Raag preserves its distinct identity.

Nearby, a pair of birds francolins appear, each wearing a small bell around its leg.

Francolins are ground-dwelling birds belonging to the pheasant family, commonly found across the Indian subcontinent. They are known for their rhythmic, repetitive calls at dawn, their alert posture and sensitivity to sound, their strong association with the natural soundscape of early morning.

Because this Raag is performed in the morning, the francolins situate the scene within the correct time cycle (samay) — an essential concept in Indian classical music, where each Raag belongs to a specific hour of the day.

 This detail is deeply symbolic.

In Indian classical tradition, rhythm (taal) and melodic discipline require immense practice. The bells so evoke training and repetition, measured rhythm and audible precision.

Just as a dancer wears ankle bells (ghungroo) to mark rhythmic accuracy, the francolins’ bells suggest that this Raag demands rigorous refinement and technical control.

This delicate detail suggests discipline and rigorous practice, reminding us that mastering the sweet, flowing tones of the Raag requires dedication and refinement.

On a symbolic level, francolins represent, awakening (as birds that call at dawn), alertness and attentiveness and devotion to sound.

Their pairing may also suggest balance — between melody and rhythm, discipline and expression, technique and emotion.

In Ragamala paintings, animals are never random additions. They embody qualities of the Raag itself. Here, the francolins mirror the nature of Miyan ki Todi: subtle, controlled, requiring internal concentration rather than dramatic flourish.

In the background stands a large banana tree, representing the khayaal — the imaginative, improvised aspect of the Raag that is often hummed rather than fully articulated. The scene becomes complete as the lady plays her three-stringed sitar, while a graceful blackbuck listens attentively, enchanted by the melody.

According to tradition, this Raag gained great popularity when the legendary musician Tansen performed it at Emperor Akbar’s court. Akbar was so impressed that he named the Raag in Tansen’s honor, calling it Miyan ki Todi, also known simply as Raag Todi.

This miniature, created by talented artists of the Kangra school, beautifully embodies one of the most celebrated Raags of its time, transforming sound into a vivid and poetic visual narrative.

In the 18th century, Raags were also painted in miniatures called Ragamalas (“Raag garlands“).

Each Raag was personified as a woman (ragini) or a hero. They have natural symbols (trees, animals, seasonal colors), and they hide poetic and spiritual references.

In the miniature in the pictures, for example:

The pomegranate represents purity.

The francolins (the little brids) with bells indicate discipline and practice.

The banana tree evokes khayaal (imagination).

The black deer listens to the sound of the sitar.

The Flying Ships of Ancient India: The Vimanas

Among the most fascinating elements of ancient Indian mythology are the Vimanas —  flying vehicles described in Sanskrit epics and later speculative texts.

The word vimāna in Sanskrit broadly means “measured out” or “constructed space,” and in early literature it often refers to a palace, temple tower, or celestial chariot. Over time, however, the term became associated with flying aerial vehicles used by gods, kings, and divine beings.


Vimanas in the Epics

Descriptions of flying vehicles appear in major Sanskrit epics such as the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. The most famous example is the Pushpaka Vimana, originally belonging to Kubera, the god of wealth, and later seized by Ravana. After Ravana’s defeat, Rama uses this aerial chariot to return to Ayodhya.

The Pushpaka Vimana is described as:

  • Self-moving

  • Capable of expanding or contracting

  • Adorned with precious metals and jewels

  • Able to travel great distances swiftly


The “Vimana Shastra” and Technical Claims

The Vaimanika Shastra (often attributed to the sage Bharadvaja) describes the construction and operation of these ancient flying machines. The text outlines:

  • Types of vimanas

  • Materials allegedly used in their construction

  • Methods of propulsion

  • Defensive and offensive capabilities


The Divine Vehicles (Vahanas)

In Hindu tradition, each deity is associated with a vahana — a sacred vehicle or mount that symbolizes divine qualities. Some of the most important include:

  • Vishnu rides Garuda, the great eagle-like celestial bird. Garuda symbolizes speed, power, and the ability to transcend earthly limitations.

  • Shiva rides Nandi, the sacred bull, representing strength and devotion.

  • Durga rides a lion or tiger, symbolizing courage and divine authority.

  • Indra, king of the gods, rides Airavata, the white elephant.

  • Saraswati rides a swan (Hamsa), representing wisdom and discernment.

  • Lakshmi is often associated with the owl, symbolizing insight in darkness.

Garuda, in particular, is sometimes depicted almost like a living aerial vehicle — a cosmic being capable of carrying Vishnu across the heavens.


Rama and Aerial Warfare

In the Ramayana, written by the wise poet Valmiki, aerial imagery plays a powerful role. Ravana’s city, Lanka, is described as magnificent and elevated, almost cloud-like in its splendor: a city built on a mountain, shining with gold, adorned with lofty palaces, shining like the sun.

During the epic war, celestial weapons are launched through the skies, and flying chariots appear in battle scenes, describing attacks on airborne or cloud-bound fortresses using divine flying vehicles. 

The poem contains many images of movement in the sky:

The Pushpaka Vimana, Ravana’s flying chariot.

Deities and warriors battling in the sky.

Divine weapons (astra) streaking through the air like lightning.

During the war between Rama and Ravana, some fighting takes place in the air.

The archeoloigcal remains of Sigirya, the ancient city and fort in Sri Lanka, is quite similar to the one described in Ramayana and could be maybe the old city represented in this painting.

 


 

The Christian Wife of Akbar

The Mughal Akbar was famous for his policy of religious tolerance. He founded the “House of Discussion” (Ibadat Khana) where he invited Muslims, Hindus, Jains, Zoroastrians, and Christians to theological debates.

He developed his own spiritual vision called Din-i Ilahi.

The Dīn-i Ilāhī (“Divine Religion”) was a spiritual system created in 1582 by the Mughal Emperor Akbar at the court of Fatehpur Sikri.

It was not an organized religion in the classical sense, but rather an ethical-spiritual order reserved for a small group of select courtiers. Akbar ruled a vast, multi-religious empire (Muslims, Hindus, Jains, Zoroastrians, and Christians). To foster unity and reduce religious conflict he promoted interreligious dialogue in the Ibadat Khana (House of Worship), where invited Muslim scholars, Hindu Brahmins, Jain monks, and Jesuits from Goa.

He developed a policy of tolerance called Sulh-i Kul (“universal peace”).

The Dīn-i Ilāhī was born in this climate of philosophical debate. It had no sacred text or structured clergy. Its principles included Monotheism (Islamic influence), respect for all religions, centrality of light and the sun (Zoroastrian influences), a strict ethics: loyalty, piety, vegetarianism on certain days, a trong personal devotion to the emperor as a spiritual guide.

In the period of Akbar life the contacts between the Mughal Empire and Portugal are historically documented. In the 16th century the Portuguese had settlements in India, especially in Goa.

Jesuit missionaries were invited to Akbar’s court since he showed great interest in Christianity and interreligious dialogue.

In 1580, a Jesuit mission from Goa arrived at Akbar’s court, and among the missionaries were Rodolfo Acquaviva and Antonio Monserrate, who brought with them a Latin Bible, many European sacred paintings and liturgical objects.

Akbar allowed them to preach and even build chapels in the city.

It is said that the reson behind this inclusion onf Christianity was a Christian wife in the personal harem of Akbar, in particular Jahangir’s mother.

The official Mughal chronicles (such as Abul Fazl’s Akbarnama) do not provide with certainty the name or precise origin of Jahangir’s mother—though they mention Akbar’s wives in detail. Jahangir built the “Maryam-uz-Zamani” Mosque in Lahore for his mother, who had the title of Maryam-uz-Zamani (Maryam or the Compassionate of the Age).

The owner of Fakir Haveli proposed that during negotiations, the Portuguese had offered Akbar a young Christian woman, brought as a rich slave to be sold in India, whom he took in his harem, and became his favourite wife.

 

The story of Dona Maria Mascarenhas

According to Goan writer Luis de Assis Correia, in his book Portuguese India and Mughal Relations (1510-1735), two Portuguese sisters— Dona Maria Mascarenhas (about 17 years old) and Juliana Mascarenhas — set out from Lisbon for Goa in 1558. During the voyage, they were captured by pirates and taken to the court of the Sultan of Gujarat, Bahadur Shah of Gujarat, and later transferred to the Mughal court.

The young Emperor Akbar fell in love with Maria and took her as his wife in his harem. According to this version, Maria became the mother of the future Emperor Jahangir, and she was identified with the historical figure of Mariam-uz-Zamani.

Maria felt quite sad among the other Akbar’s wives, since she was the only Christian one, so Akbar built a small Christian center for her in Lahore, having her live there.

After her death, the son Jahangir built a mosque in her honor called Begum Shahi Mosque or Mariam-uz-Zamani Mosque. It is quite strange that on her grave are missing some normal islamic verses that usually appears on every grave.

Her sister Juliana Mascarenhas, according to the same tradition, played an important role at court: she became a physician and an influential figure in the Mughal court.

In some versions, she is linked to the Bourbon family in India through her marriage to a French descendant, often identified as Jean Philippe de Bourbon.

Contemporary Mughal chronicles, particularly the Akbarnama written by Abul Fazl, do not mention any Portuguese Christian wives of Akbar, in order to keep hidden this fact (the religious tolerance of Akbar towards Chrstianity ended in fact very soon after his death).

Modern historical studies identify Mariam-uz-Zamani as a Hindu Rajput princess, married to Akbar in 1562.

Akbar married numerous Hindu Rajput princesses to consolidate political alliances within his empire. However, as part of his policy of religious tolerance (“Sulh-i Kul”), he did not force his wives to convert to Islam or change their religion. He allowed them to practice their faith freely within the palace. 

Giving an overtly Muslim name to a Hindu princess would have publicly implied a change of faith, openly contradicting Akbar’s policy of allowing brides to retain their religious identity.