Hair Health: Beyond Products and Into Awareness
Hair Care is a Science
Hair care is a science. We may have noticed that some practices work well for one person, while they may be harmful for another’s scalp. We cannot use the same products for everyone – which is why marketing claims often fail.
It is essential to understand and study each case individually. Most importantly, we need to observe and understand ourselves first, so we can choose the practices and products that are most beneficial for our hair, while avoiding toxic ingredients.
I studied physics at university, and those years gave me something far more precious than knowledge: they trained me to think critically. Physics instilled in me a healthy skepticism, a form of constructive doubt toward whatever is presented to us—whether by industry, media, or society at large, becases I learnt that I can understand the world, if I open my heart and my mind, and I do a creative effort developing a pure obkective way of observing it.
We live in a globalized world where the system itself survives by constantly creating new needs for individuals, so that people consume more and more products. In this cycle, human beings risk becoming objects that simply consume other objects. Science, when practiced with imagination and creativity, teaches us the opposite: to remain open, to question, to step beyond conditioned patterns of thought and actually see really what is right in front of us.
One subject that lies close to my heart is hair health.
For many years, I had naturally strong, thick hair. But at a certain point, despite living a balanced life—with regular exercise and a mostly vegetarian, high-quality diet—I began to notice that my hair was thinning and becoming fragile.
At first, I was puzzled. Only later did I realize that the cosmetics industry itself can be harmful to individuals. My scientific background allowed me to investigate what is really inside hair products.
So I started to study surfectants, silicones, industrial fragrances, preservatives and all the chemical moleculas inside shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and oils—often marketed as “parabens-free” or “phosphates-free” or even “100% natural”. I discovered that natural doesn’t mean always good for hair, and that even the most naturals can contain substances that are not appropriate for hair.
It’s not just about dyes, bleaches, and coloring treatments, which most people already suspect are damaging. The problem lies deeper:
Preservatives are always required, even in “natural” products, to make them last longer on the shelf.
Many “natural ingredient” shampoos and oils create a coating that makes hair look shiny but actually traps pollutants and residues from the environment.
Even premium brands may contain aggressive surfactants, silicones, and synthetic fragrances that, over time, weaken the scalp and alter its natural balance.
OUR GOOD HAIR CARE ROUTINE
A good hair care routine involves a healthy lifestyle, along with washing and using products in the right frequency and amounts. Products should not build up and weigh down the ends, but they also should not be too harsh on the scalp.
The scalp should be clean, hydrated, and healthy, while the ends should be nourished, light, airy, and voluminous.
The best way forward is simple yet challenging: get informed. Let’s go on and discover what we are really using everyday on our hair and scalp.
An overview about the hair products
🧴 Shampoo
Main purpose: to clean.
It removes dirt, oil, sweat, and product build-up.
Contains surfactants that lift away impurities when rinsed with water.
👉 After shampooing, hair is clean but cuticles are open, which can make it feel rough or dry.
💆 Conditioner
Main purpose: to nourish and protect.
Used after shampoo to smooth the cuticles, making hair softer and shinier. Make detangling easier.
Contains conditioning agents (silicones, oils, butters, quaterns) and emollients like coconut oil, argan oil, shea butter.
🌸 Hair Masks
Deep treatments used once or twice a week.
Provide intense hydration and repair for dry, damaged, or color-treated hair.
Usually left on for 5–20 minutes to allow nutrients to penetrate deeply.
✨ Hair Oils
Add nourishment and shine.
Protect against dryness and split ends.
Can be used on wet hair (for softness) or on dry hair (to tame frizz and add gloss).
💨 Hair Sprays and Leave-in Products
Designed to protect or style hair throughout the day.
Types include:
Heat protection sprays (before blow-drying or straightening)
Detangling sprays (for easier combing)
Finishing sprays (to add shine or hold a hairstyle)
✨ In summary:
Shampoo = cleans 🧼
Conditioner = nourishes and protects 🌸
Masks = deep repair 💆
Oils = extra nourishment and shine ✨
Sprays = styling and protection 💨
SURFECTANTS USED IN SHAMPOO
🔹 1. Anionic Surfactants
• Charge: negative
• Function: they are the main cleansers, removing dirt, sebum, and residues.
EXAMPLES:
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
It is one of the most common surfactants in shampoos, shower gels, and toothpastes. It is a very effective cleansing and foaming agent. It removes dirt, sebum, and product residue from the hair and scalp. It produces a lot of foam, which is why it is widely used in cosmetic products.
BUT: It can be too harsh, especially for dry, color-treated hair, or sensitive scalps. It can dry out hair and skin and in some cases cause irritation. It is non-toxic, but frequent use on sensitive scalps can create irritation and allergy.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
The main difference is that SLES is gentler than SLS thanks to a process called “ethoxylation,” which makes the molecule less irritating to skin and hair.
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate > It is a really strong surfactant, good to clean in depth your scalp from all the oils, pollution and dirt, but it can create damage to cuticles and create hair fraying.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) > Less irritating than SLS, but still very potent
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate > derived from coconut oil, more gentle and biodegradable.
• Pros: they foam a lot, clean thoroughly.
• Cons: they can be harsh, drying out the scalp and hair.
🔹 2. Cationic Surfactants
• Charge: positive
• Function: they have a conditioning effect → they bind to the hair surface (which is slightly negative), leaving it softer and more manageable.
EXAMPLES:
Quaternium-10
Behentrimonium chloride
• Pros: they reduce static electricity, soften.
• Cons: They don’t cleanse on their own, so they’re used in conditioners rather than shampoos.
🔹 3. Amphoteric Surfactants
• Charge: Variable (positive or negative, depending on pH).
• Function: Gentle, moderate foaming, mitigates the aggressiveness of anionic surfactants.
EXAMPLES:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) > is much gentler, and often used in “SLS-free” shampoos.
• Pros: They make the formula more gentle and tolerable.
• Cons: They don’t cleanse on their own, so they’re used in combination.
🔹 4. Non-ionic Surfactants
• Charge: Neutral (no charge).
• Function: They cleanse very gently, often used in shampoos for babies or sensitive skin.
• EXAMPLES:
Decyl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Laureth-4 > Mild non-ionic surfactant, that provide a good balance between cleaning your hair enough and not being too irritating to the scalp for your regular washes. It might not be strong enough for an oily scalp or to remove product build up on the scalp and strands.
• Pros: Very gentle, biodegradable.
MORE ABOUT SULFATES IN HAIR CARE
Sulfates are a class of inorganic compounds that are chemically derived from alcohols and sulfuric acid. Many sulfate esters are widely used in detergents, including shampoos, body washes, and dish soaps.
In haircare products, sulfates serve an important purpose as surfectants: they reduce the surface tension of water, creating a rich lather that effectively removes oil, dirt, and product buildup from the hair and scalp.
Surfactants are molecules that reduce the surface tension of water, allowing water and oils/dirt to mix, aiding cleansing.
Sulfates are anionic surfactants, meaning they have a negative charge that makes them very effective at removing sebum, dirt, and product residue from the hair and scalp.
Due to their chemical structure, they are among the most powerful and foaming surfactants used in shampoos, body washes, and cleansers.
Compared to other cleansing agents, sulfates are extremely efficient. They have been shown to provide superior cleaning performance among surfactants, making them one of the most effective ingredients for deep cleansing.
Kind of Sulfates:
🔹 Strong Sulfates
Best used to remove Resilient Silicones and oils
EXMPLES:
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Myreth Sulfate
TEA Lauryl Sulfate
Use: Ideal for deep cleansing and removing tough product buildup or resilient silicones.
🔹 Moderate Sulfates
Milder than strong sulfates at the same dosage → less irritating
Lower efficacy → may require multiple washes to fully remove residue
Best used to remove Friendly Silicones and some Resilient Silicones
🧴 Tips for the use of Sulfate in hair routine:
Use sulfate-free shampoos for your everyday hair care
Use once or twice a month sulfate shampoos to deep clean hair and scalp
Use different shampoos for different purposes:
Homemade or sulfate-free for normal washes
Sulfate-based shampoo for removing buildup
Dilute your sulfate shampoo with water → reduces concentration while remaining effective
SULFATE-FREE: THE STRATEGY OF MARKETING
A lot of products nowadays have written: SULFATE-FREE, but this is just marketing!
Not all sulfates are harmful.
In general, sulfates can damage the hair cuticle over time, attacking proteins and making hair weaker and more brittle.
BUT:
“Sulfate-free” shampoos are not automatically better. They may contain other ingredients that can damage hair proteins even more, such as:
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
This means that the presence or absence of sulfates is not the only indicator of a shampoo’s gentleness.
We need to be aware of the marketing hidden behind the label and don’t trust the sentences like “sulfate-free” thinking that the shampoo is gentle and mild!
Furthermore sometimes sulphates are ueven seful:
A flaky or scaly scalp does not necessarily mean dryness. It can be caused by:
Dry scalp
Oily or greasy scalp
Dermatitis or other scalp conditions
In such cases, it may be helpful to use medical products containing sulfates, as they effectively cleanse the scalp and remove excess sebum and residue.
If we never use sulfates, at first we may notice that our hair feels less damaged. However, over time – after a few months – pollution, fine dust, and other residues can accumulate on the hair. Within a few weeks, this may lead to dandruff, oily scalp, or even hair loss.
So it is important to use for your regular washing a real healthy Sulfate-Free shampoo. However, once to twice a month, you will want to use a Sulphate shampoo to help reset your scalp and remove any build-up.
REMEMBER: CONCENTRATION MAKES THE DIFFERENCE!
There is SLS both in in intimate soap than in dish soap, because both have the purpose of washing, but the concentration is very different!
How to Read a Shampoo Label
By regulation, cosmetic ingredients must be listed in order of quantity, from highest to lowest. The first ingredients make up most of the product, and shoud be WATER, while the last ones are present only in trace amounts.
🔹 1. Surfactants (Cleansing agents)
These are the washing ingredients — they create foam and remove dirt and sebum.
Common examples:
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (milder, derived from coconut)
👉 They’re the most important part of shampoo, but also the harshest if used in high concentrations, since they can dry out and irritate the scalp and hair.
🔹 2. Conditioning agents
Added to make hair softer, easier to comb, and to reduce frizz.
Silicones: Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane (make hair shiny but often create a film that builds up over time).
Polyquaterniums (e.g., Polyquaternium-10): give a smooth, anti-static effect.
🔹 3. Thickeners and stabilizers
These give shampoo its texture (otherwise it would be as runny as water).
Examples: Sodium Chloride (salt), Glycol Distearate.
🔹 4. Preservatives
Essential to prevent shampoo from spoiling or developing bacteria/mold.
Examples: Parabens, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone.
👉 Even “natural” products must contain preservatives, otherwise they would not last on the shelf for months.
🔹 5. Fragrances
They give shampoo its pleasant scent.
Often made of synthetic blends, which can sometimes cause allergies.
In more natural products, essential oils (lavender, mint, lemon) are used instead.
🔹 6. Colorants
Added purely for appearance (blue, clear, pearly, etc.).
🔹 7. Extracts and “marketing actives”
These are the ingredients often highlighted on the packaging: aloe vera, keratin, biotin, wheat proteins, vitamins.
👉 In reality, they’re usually present in very small amounts — more for consumer appeal than for a real effect.
✨ In summary: a shampoo is mainly made of water + surfactants + preservatives + fragrance, while oils, extracts, and vitamins are often included in very small percentages.
Example:
Let’s read the ingredients of Nashi Argan Shampoo suggested by many high quality hair dresser beause it is free from: phosphates, parabens, PPG (Polypropylene Glycol / Polipropilenglicole), EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid), colorants, silicones.
Ingredients:
Aqua (Water) – the main base of the shampoo.
Sodium Coceth Sulfate – gentle surfactant (cleanser).
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – coconut-derived mild cleanser and foam enhancer.
Diammonium Citrate – pH stabilizer.
Glycerin – humectant, attracts and retains moisture.
Cocamide DEA – thickening agent from coconut oil.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil – emulsifier and foam booster.
Propylene Glycol – hydration enhancer.
Alcohol Denat. – solubilizer.
Piroctone Olamine – anti-fungal agent for healthy scalp.
Salicylic Acid – exfoliates and clarifies the scalp.
Argania Spinosa Kernel (Argan) Oil – nourishing and antioxidant.
Linum Usitatissimum Seed (Linseed) Oil – moisturizing and softening.
Camellia Japonica Seed (Tsubaki) Oil – adds shine and softness.
15–20. Botanical Extracts (pomegranate, Sichuan pepper, nettle, calla lily, meadowsweet) – scalp-soothing and antioxidant.Bakuchiol – natural alternative to retinol, antioxidant and soothing compound.
Parfum (Fragrance) – scent component.
23–24. Polyquaternium-10 / Polyquaternium-28 – conditioning and anti-static agents.
25–26. PEG-150 Distearate / Oleyl Alcohol – texture and viscosity agents.Benzyl Alcohol – preservative.
28–29. Methylchloroisothiazolinone / Methylisothiazolinone – preservative duo.
WHAT IS STILL DANGEROUS HERE:
- ALCOHOL DENAT
Alcohol Denat (denatured) is ethyl alcohol made undrinkable by adding denaturing substances. It is widely used in cosmetics and hair products, including shampoos and lotions as:
Solvent: Helps dissolve and distribute other active ingredients (e.g., plant extracts, essential oils).
Antiseptic and preservative action: Reduces bacterial contamination in products.
Mild astringent action: Can temporarily reduce the feeling of oiliness or greasy skin.
Fast evaporation: Makes lotions and sprays less sticky and lighter.
‼️ If you use the shampoo often this ingredient may dry out your hair causing split ends and breakage.
- COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is an amphoteric surfactant widely used in shampoos, shower gels, and mild cleansers. It is prized for its gentle cleansing properties and its soft lather.
The main ingredient (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) is generally considered safe and gentle, approved by most cosmetic authorities.
‼️ The problem may arise from residual impurities left over from the chemical synthesis process, such as secondary starches or dimethylaminopropylamine derivatives. These impurities can cause irritation or contact dermatitis, especially on very sensitive or damaged skin.
For this reason, some dermatologists recommend avoiding products with CAPB if you have a sensitive scalp, or choosing “purified CAPB” or dermatologically tested shampoos.
- COCAMIDE DEA
Cocamide DEA (Diethanolamine) is an ingredient derived from coconut oil and diethanolamine. It is used in cosmetics and shampoos primarily as:
Main functions in shampoo:
Surfactant/Foaming Agent: Helps create a dense, stable foam.
Thickener: Improves the viscosity and consistency of shampoo.
Mild emulsifier: Blends oily and aqueous ingredients well.
‼️ Cocamide DEA is not particularly irritating, but it can react with certain impurities or contaminants to form nitrosamines, potentially carcinogenic substances.
For this reason some regulatory agencies (such as California Prop. 65) limit or discourage its use in cosmetics.
- PARFUME
Artificial fragrance is very drying for your hair, which can lead to more breakage and frizz over time.
Conditioners & Silicones in Hair Care
Silicones are your hair’s best friend when used correctly! They form a protective layer around each strand, making hair:
✨ Smooth
✨ Soft
✨ Shiny
✨ Easy to detangle
Found in: shampoos, conditioners, leave-in creams, masks, and treatments.
Types of Silicones
💧 Water-Soluble Silicones (Friendly Silicones)
Dissolve easily in water
Condition without buildup
Wash out with sulfate-free shampoos, conditioners, or oils
Examples: Dimethicone Copolyol, Lauryl Methicone Copolyol, Phenyltrimethicone
Tip: Wash hair every 3–4 days to keep strands hydrated
🌬️ Airy Silicones
Light and evaporate quickly in a few hours
Smooth and soften hair without weighing it down
Examples: Cyclomethicone, Decamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, Hexamethyltrisiloxane
🛡️ Resilient Silicones
Provide heat, UV, and humidity protection
Non-soluble → require sulfate shampoo to remove
Apply last in your routine to avoid repelling other products
Examples: Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Dimethiconol
❌ No-Go Silicones
Form a strong seal around hair
Hard to remove → buildup can block moisture and cause dryness or breakage
Removal often requires a strong sulfate shampoo
Examples: Behenoxy Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone
💡 Tip: Look for cationic ingredients (Polyquaternium, or ending in bromide/chloride) – they can make removal trickier!
💡 Why Solubility Matters
Water-Soluble: easy to rinse, no buildup
Non-Soluble: needs stronger shampoos to remove
No-Go: can cause dryness and require multiple washes
🌈 The Truth About Silicones
Silicones repel additional layers, preventing unwanted buildup if applied correctly
Protect hair from heat, UV, and humidity
Reduce frizz and make hair soft, shiny, and manageable
✅ Key Takeaway: Use the right type of silicone for your hair: soluble for daily softness, resilient for protection, and avoid No-Go silicones unless you know how to remove them properly without an aggresive shampoo that will damage your hair.